Original article: Sourcing Journal
What’s old is new again, and as Twin Dragon tackles the hot vintage trend of soft, worn, faded denim, the manufacturer is turning to new techniques with cleaner production and less environmental impact to get there.
Headquartered in Los Angeles, TDMI recently debuted its sustainable vintage collection, capturing a “heavily trending” look in the market.
“We start by using eco-essential fibers, utilizing spinning techniques, using engineered comfort constructions and eco-finish to achieve a modern yet classic vintage aesthetic,” said Stephanie Poon, director of marketing and merchandising at TDMI.
Through using this new technology in eco finishing developed in 2017, TDMI has used approximately 30 percent less chemicals, water and energy compared to conventional washes. The company also introduced the sustainable washes without the use of stones, potassium permanganate, bleach or manual sanding. This is key for popular vintage washes, which require a significant amount of distressing. Low impact washing is imperative during this time, especially with the extreme weather occurring around the world.
Shade also plays a key role in creating the vintage vibe as “the right” depth and cast is “significant” in producing the highs and lows “distinct” in the trend. The collection also features green fibers like lyocell and recycled cotton.
“Most of our eco-finish denim and eco washes range from 16-26 in the EIM scoring classification (0-33 is low impact, 34-66 is medium impact and 66 plus is high impact),” said Poon.
“Vintage denim” doesn’t just have to have a vintage look, it also has to have a vintage feel, and that means softness.
To that end, one of TDMI’s latest yarn developments is Smart Soft 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0, all of which are a “special type of yarn spinning” which creates the “softest, most luxurious hand in the industry,” said Poon, adding that smart soft 2.5 differs from 2.0 and 3.0 as it integrates lyocell fibers in its spinning to produce a “spongy and cool hand.”
“Our goal is to increase the use of lyocell in our fabrics to reduce overall water consumption necessary for cotton production. We also introduced recycled and biodegradable poly blends for stretch weft yarn,” Poon added. “TDMI remains committed to producing the greenest and cleanest denim on earth for a better tomorrow.”
Established in 1980, TDMI has grown into a “responsible multicultural global denim textile solution.” In fact, by spreading yarn production across China, Mexico, Vietnam and Taiwan in 2018, TDMI has “further expanded its strategic vertical advantage.”
“By integrating yarn production among different countries, we have been able to support our customers by reinforcing their manufacturing logistics, meaning with one development, they are able to do garment production in all different regions,” said Poon. “Our mission to sustainable production is managed from every step of the process, and yarn spinning is part of it.”